The Bay of Naples offers a delightful mix of history and breathtaking scenery. Between the city of Naples, Mount Vesuvius, the archaeological site of Pompeii, and the Amalfi Coast just below, you’re in for an unforgettable trip.
Here are the unmissable spots in this part of Campania to ensure you don't miss anything during your stay.
Yes, Naples has its good and bad sides, like any place. But let’s get the "negative" out of the way quickly so we can focus on all the positives of Naples, don’t you agree?
You’ve probably heard some negative clichés about Naples that have tarnished the city's image. But if you haven’t, don’t worry, here’s a quick summary (that’s why we’re here 😉).
Among the most persistent clichés, you’ll find:
So, feeling reassured?
Now that we've cleared that up a bit, here are the places we recommend you visit in Naples:
Piazza del Plebiscito, also known in Italian as Largo di Palazzo or Foro Regio, is the most important and largest square in Naples. It takes its name from the plebiscite (a form of referendum) that allowed for the unification of Italy in 1860, a significant date in both Italian and European political history.
The square is surrounded by the Basilica of San Francesco di Paola (Basilica Reale Pontificia San Francesco da Paola), the Royal Palace (Palazzo Reale), Palazzo Salerno, and Palazzo della Prefettura. The colonnades lining the square make it truly impressive, making you feel small in the middle of it all.
Via Toledo is one of the busiest streets in the city and one of Naples’ main shopping streets. It connects the northern and southern parts of the city, starting from Piazza Dante and ending at Piazza del Plebiscito.
There’s always plenty of activity (especially during Easter weekend, when we visited—there were so many people it was nearly impossible to make our way through) and lots of shops along this street.
As you walk down Via Toledo toward Piazza del Plebiscito, you’ll inevitably come across Galleria Umberto I. Similar in style to Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Galleria Umberto I has a lot of charm with its glass ceilings, shops, and imposing dome.
Basilica Santa Chiara is the largest Gothic monument in Naples, located right in the heart of the city.
When we visited Naples, the Basilica was unfortunately under renovation and closed (well, not exactly closed; we just passed by after it had closed for the day, and since we only stayed in Naples for one day... we missed the chance to visit). Despite its rather ordinary facade, don’t hesitate to go inside and take a walk around the monastery's gardens and cloister at the back. You’ll most likely be impressed by the majolica-covered columns and benches (which we, sadly, only saw in pictures).
While the church can be visited for free, the cloister has an entrance fee of €6 per person (reduced fee €4.50).
Additionally, from May to July, special guided tours of the cloister take place every Saturday at 10 a.m. (reservations are mandatory here). These are guided tours for groups of up to 30 people, but the advantage is that the guided tour costs the same as the regular cloister entrance fee.
A great way to learn more without spending extra!
Website for the Basilica: www.monasterodisantachiara.it
Address: 49/c, Via Santa Chiara, 49/C, 80134 Napoli
The Basilica of Santa Chiara is located in the historical center of Naples.
This area, with its narrow streets, the aroma of pizza, and the constant buzz of the crowd, is a must-see during your stay in Naples.
The main street in Old Naples is Spaccanapoli, which literally means "Splits Naples." As you can guess, it's a street that cuts Naples in two. It's one of the three main roads of ancient Neapolis, dating back to 580 BC. So even though we're talking about a time that even those over 20 years old can't remember, history is still alive here. The street boasts no fewer than 17 palaces and 14 churches, as well as numerous shops, restaurants, bars, and more.
There’s also a free walking tour of Old Naples. a fun way to discover more about the neighborhood with a local guide (who speaks English, not French, unfortunately) in a tour lasting just over two hours.
For something more unique, you can try the Naples Street Food Tour.
We also recommend stopping by the shop La Maschera È Libertà, a workshop where Commedia dell'Arte masks are handcrafted by Robin Summa.
Lastly, we suggest visiting Artigiano Napoli a cocktail bar and workshop of shoemaker Yas. It's an unusual and unique spot that combines the art of custom shoemaking with distillation, all set to a vinyl music atmosphere. A great place to spend time in an original setting.
Addresses:
Old Naples is also where you can taste the pizza crowned as the best in the world, found at Gino e Toto Sorbillo. However, be prepared to arrive early (around 7:30 p.m. or earlier) if you want a chance to try it—or have a lot of patience.
When we visited during Easter weekend, even at 7 p.m. there was over an hour-long wait. Unable to wait due to catching a train that evening, we opted for another pizzeria: Insolito - La Pizzeria Gourmet. The pizzas were very good, and the prices were really reasonable!
Gino e Toto Sorbillo is unanimously praised for its fast service, large pizzas that are light and deserving of their reputation, low prices, and clean restrooms (despite the crowd)—BUT they use plastic cups... EXCEPT for the wine, thankfully. Crisis averted!
When you arrive, you stand in line, give your name, and when a table opens up, the staff call your name through a microphone. In the meantime, you wait outside, but from what we saw, you can order a drink while waiting.
Links and addresses:
After a pizza break, it’s time to get back to sightseeing.
The Veiled Christ (Cristo Velato) in the San Severo Chapel (Cappella San Severo) is a must-see if you're visiting Naples.
We're saying this because it came highly recommended, and in 2006, this monument was even declared a "symbol of the city of Naples." However, to be honest, we didn’t get the chance to see it during our short stay in Naples… another regret we’ll need to make up for when we visit the city again on a longer weekend trip!
But from what we hear, the visit is well worth the price. For €8 at full price (€5 for those under 25), you enter the chapel, and at the center of the nave is the Capo Lavoro, or in other words, Il Cristo Velato.
This life-size marble statue, commissioned by Prince Raimondo di Sangro (Prince of San Severo) and created by Neapolitan sculptor Giuseppe Sanmartino, is a true marvel of its time.
The body of Christ lies lifeless after his crucifixion, covered by a shroud, a light and transparent veil that drapes over him, allowing his facial features and expressions to be clearly seen.
And let’s not forget—it’s a marble statue! A veil in marble! 🤯
It’s said that when the artist presented his work to the public in 1753, "some critics, skeptical, claimed that Raimondo di Sangro taught the artist the alchemical formula to turn cloth into crystalline marble." This speaks to the fineness and beauty of the Cristo Velato and the feat of creating such a sculpture.
It’s hard for us to describe this place and this masterpiece more fully without having seen it ourselves… but we hear there are other statues in the chapel that are just as remarkable, and that the place has an air of mystery.
If you visit, be sure to let us know in the comments what you saw and felt! We’re curious to hear about your experience.
One last thing: apparently, photos are prohibited inside the chapel… a shame, but it adds to the mystery of the place and its artworks, which we hope to see with our own eyes someday.
Website for te Chapel: www.museosansevero.it
Adress of the Chapel : Via Francesco de Sanctis, 19/21, 80134 Napoli
We wrap up our must-dos in Naples with a lesser-known site: the Church of Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio (Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio ad Arco, or Purgatorio ad Arco in Italian).
This is yet another place we didn’t have time to visit (it’s on the list for next time), but it came highly recommended—and we can completely understand why after doing some research.
Known to Neapolitans as 'e cape 'e morte (meaning "the head of death"), this church is anything but ordinary. In fact, visiting it takes you on a journey into Neapolitan culture, merging "art, faith, life, and death." But to truly appreciate the place, you need to understand the context.
In Naples, there is a deep-rooted tradition of honoring the "souls in purgatory." This tradition arose after a series of tragic events in the 1600s (Mount Vesuvius erupted for 17 consecutive days, the Masaniello popular revolt, and a plague outbreak) that claimed half the population... many of whom were buried in mass graves outside the city without religious ceremonies, leaving them stuck in purgatory rather than entering paradise.
It’s said that "their souls began to beg for the usual prayers and blessings to escape purgatory." This cult developed in Naples over the centuries, and since the soul is tied to the body, the cult of the souls in purgatory is symbolized through the remains of the deceased (notably their skulls).
This explains the eerie decor (such as skulls and bronze bones) you’ll find around the church... and inside it.
This church was built to watch over the eternal rest of all souls, especially those buried without a religious ceremony. And it’s in the hypogeum, below the church, that this cult of the souls developed.
In this "church beneath the church," you'll find anonymous human remains that have become privileged intermediaries for invocations, prayers, and requests for intercession.
Yes, it’s unusual, we agree, but it’s also unique and quintessentially Neapolitan. So if you want to be surprised and discover a new world, this is the place to go!
The visit to the "surface" church is free, but if you want to venture into the hypogeum, this underground church (and its museum), you’ll need to pay €6 at full price (and €5 at a reduced rate). A visit we’ll definitely make when we return to Naples!
Website for the church: www.purgatorioadarco.it
Adress of the church : Via dei Tribunali, 39, 80138 Napoli.
In addition to the sights in Naples itself, there are tours departing from the city to explore the surrounding areas, which we’ll discuss in more detail in the following sections.
How can you visit Naples without stopping by Pompeii (and vice versa)?
When you're in this part of Italy, it's hard to visit one without the other, and it would be a shame to miss out.
This city, buried under ash after the tragic eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD, has much to offer in terms of history.
Disappeared, forgotten, then rediscovered in the 16th century during the first excavations by archaeologists in 1748, tens of hectares await you on this visit, with a total of 1,435 buildings, including 515 uncovered houses.
Although the archaeological site of Pompeii is relatively well-preserved, it’s important to remember that these are ruins. It’s difficult to fully understand the history of the place without any explanations. And we can confirm this because Simon and I did the visit without a guide (or audio guide)... Yes, not our smartest decision... As a result, we struggled to identify each building and its purpose.
So, if you don’t want to make the same mistake and miss out on the significance of what you’re seeing, you have several options:
Now, a few more details about the Pompeii archaeological site:
First, as you've probably gathered, there are multiple entrances:
Next, the price for entry is €16 for full price and €2 for reduced price. And just like in Paris, entry is free on the first Sunday of every month.
As for us, we were happy to visit Pompeii and learn more about this tragedy and the site itself. However, Simon was less affected by the experience than I was. The lack of context and information didn’t help us much. If we were to do it again, we would definitely get audioguides to really immerse ourselves in Pompeii and understand what buildings we were looking at.
I’ll finish these few lines on Pompeii by sharing what impressed and moved us the most: the petrified bodies. Yes, you can see a few petrified bodies within the site.
It’s truly impressive to see these bodies covered in ash, frozen in time, in the exact position they were when they were engulfed by lava. Not to mention the expressions on their faces. You can see fear, despair, the will to survive… It’s really incredible.
Another aspect that resonated with us (due to our jobs) was the preservation of the painted rooms and colors. It’s amazing to see that objects or painted walls from almost 2,000 years ago have retained their original intensity and colors. This preservation is thanks to the Vesuvius eruption, as the ash protected the colors. It's a valuable heritage that provides insight into how pigments were made at the time.
Website : pompeiisites.org
Leaving behind the emotions stirred by Pompeii, let's move on to the Amalfi Coast. This UNESCO World Heritage-listed coastline is not to be outdone by its neighboring sites. It lies south of Naples and Pompeii, stretching towards the Island of Capri. What defines it best are probably its narrow and steep roads winding between the sea and cliffs, with colorful villages perched along the mountainside.
Starting from Castellammare di Stabia in the north, Sorrento in the west, and stretching to Salerno in the east, this 75 km road offers stunning views and landscapes.
The main towns in this region are:
Facing the island of Capri, Sorrento is often the starting point for visiting the Amalfi Coast. It’s a charming little town, full of narrow streets and a lively atmosphere. From here, you’ll have a wonderful view of the bay, and you can enjoy some delicious Limoncello or fresh lemonade made from local lemons.
Positano is a vibrant town with narrow streets and steep stairways leading down to its beach. The ceramic dome of the Santa Maria Assunta church is beautiful and will surely catch your eye.
If you have the time and budget, consider taking a boat tour. They say the village is stunning when viewed from the sea.
Much quieter than the other villages on the Amalfi Coast, in Ravello you’ll find terraces of lemon trees and gardens filled with bougainvillea, palm trees, and pines. It’s said that the gardens of Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone are beautiful.
Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone are beautiful.
This UNESCO World Heritage-listed trail links the villages of Bomerano and Nocelle (and even extends to Positano) with breathtaking views of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
It’s a 5 km hike (about 2 to 3 hours) with a bit of a challenge, featuring a 400-meter elevation gain.
Amalfi is the town that gave the region its name. Once a bustling and popular city, today it has just 5,000 residents (down from 70,000 in the 1300s), due to a devastating tidal wave that destroyed much of the town.
Here too, you’ll find many narrow streets, colorful façades, and beautiful churches to explore.
Throughout and between these beautiful villages, you’ll find plenty of ceramic shops. Ceramics have been the specialty of the Amalfi Coast since the late Renaissance. You’ll find designs inspired by local fauna and flora: the sea, animals, lemon trees... A perfect idea for a souvenir from your trip!
Italian roads are not known for being the widest or best maintained. But in the Bay of Naples, it's quite the ordeal!
Here, we’ll share our experience using a van and train.
There are several transportation options available: car, bus, train, bicycle, etc.
We arrived in a van in Naples and Pompeii, and let me tell you, it was quite the chaos. Driving in Naples is a nightmare. The streets are narrow, people park haphazardly, and it’s impossible to find a parking spot if you haven’t booked in advance.
After circling around the outskirts of Naples for a few hours and calling various parking lots (to avoid driving around aimlessly), we quickly retreated to Pompeii, where we found an open campsite with a few available spots.
This experience made us realize that we would have to manage without a vehicle in Pompeii, as well as to get to Naples (25 km away).
Fortunately, the two cities are well-served by trains. We highly recommend using this mode of transport!
Honestly, it's quite simple. From Pompeii station, the journey takes 45 minutes to downtown Naples (and vice versa), with departures every 30 minutes (and there are even charging ports for your phone on the train).
You can easily book a ticket online through the Trenitalia website, but it’s just as simple to go to the station and buy your ticket directly at the counter or at a nearby machine. A single ticket costs €2.80, making a round trip €5.60 per person. It's a really reasonable price that guarantees peace of mind since you don't have to worry about driving in Naples.
On the Amalfi Coast, it's much the same, if not worse!
If you're coming by car, I hope you have a strong heart (I say this, but we were in a van, so driving a regular car might be simpler and less terrifying. Or maybe not... 🤔).
To give you some context, Simon did all the driving, and I can tell you I was terrified at nearly every turn 😂. Expect narrow streets, a lot of traffic, people parking anywhere, pedestrians walking in the road because there are no sidewalks, Italians driving poorly and refusing to yield, buses coming head-on, traffic jams...
Let’s not kid ourselves, driving along this coast can be a bit of a nightmare, but we really don’t regret having done it. We genuinely believe it's the best way to get around and explore, as you're free to stop whenever you like (but not in the middle of the road, okay?) to take in the landscapes and villages along the way.
That said, you can also take the bus. The entire coast is served by buses, allowing you to travel from town to town. However, we must warn you that, according to feedback from friends and people we met, you might see your life flash before your eyes more than once! Yes, the driver remains Italian, and the roads don’t widen just because a bus is passing... But the views are worth it, haha. And to reassure you, those who told us this are still alive 😂.
Here we are at the end of this (endless) article. We tried to be as comprehensive as possible about Naples, Pompeii, the Amalfi Coast, and transportation in the area.
Now that you have all this information, it’s your turn to plan your trip to Campania and, above all, to enjoy it.
You can already book your flight here:
Well, safe travels and enjoy your holiday!
And please, let us know in the comments what you loved most about the Bay of Naples (whether it’s mentioned in this article or not; we’d love to discover new little gems 😉).
1. Remember to book your tickets in advance for visits in Naples to avoid queues on-site or unpleasant surprises (like a closed monument or fully booked tours).
2. If you’re driving to Naples, don’t forget to reserve your parking spot. We didn’t do this during our stay, and everything was full... It was panic-inducing! Even though you can park on the street for €2 an hour (paying at the meter or via an app), it’s better to go to a parking garage (it'll be cheaper for a full day). There are websites and apps for booking a spot: Parkingmeter, Parclick, OnePark, Parking.ai, and many more*.
3. In Pompeii, don’t be fooled by the "fake tourist offices" around the entrances. Their system is well-practiced: a person wearing a t-shirt that says "Tourist Office" or "Tourist Information" will approach you, claiming they want to give you a free map of the Pompeii site, but in the end, they’ll offer you audioguides (likely more expensive than the ones from the official site). If you refuse, you'll quickly find yourself outside without even getting the map… Anyway, free maps are available in self-service at the site entrances, so it’s really not a big deal if you miss out!
*Links to the apps: Parkingmeter, Parclick, OnePark, Parking.ai.
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